Journal: Hand Knitting Norwegian Sweater Project and Pattern Based on Dale of Norway Peace Sweater

Hand Knits by Peg's Knitting Arnoldussen
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Finished sweater as of 31May2015 (date of photo) Dale Peace inspired genser

INTRODUCTION: This is to be kind of a hand knitted version of Dale of Norway's Peace sweater, and I am writing a pattern for this garment as I work. On 16Jan15, my yarn vendor, Woolybaabaa (who knows what's going on in the knitting world), contacted me regarding a newly posted Ravelry thread (I don't subscribe) from Dale, saying that they are in the process (finally, after ten years!) of developing a hand knitted version of Peace. I was told that English translations typically show up about six months after the Norwegian version is presented, and there is no Norwegian version yet. There's just a promise. As for me, I will continue what I've started: my hand knitted Quasi-Peace. (-:

22June2015: Dale Garn has posted on FaceBook a sneak peek of their hand knitted version of the RTW DON Peace sweater, by Randi Sunde. Abbie's sweater is based solely on the RTW only. The official Dale Garn Norwegian version hand knitting pattern is HERE as of 26June2015. The official Dale Garn English translation was released 24Aug15 and is available HERE.

Pattern oppskrift and Charts Dale Peace inspired genser

WRITTEN PATTERN UPDATE: I have written a pattern for my Peace inspired sweater, available HERE -- my pattern. It's instructional in nature, to help expand the knitter's understanding of garment construction, present math concepts pertaining to garment construction, evaluate the fitting of a human, much more. It's also "general," in the sense that this construction can be applied to any of Dale's ready-to-wear, "feminine" sweaters having a similar gauge as Peace, or any motif arrangement the knitter would like to create. Though I knitted it using Peace-like motifs, any motif design can be used.

My design overcomes the pitfalls I'm noticing as knitters complete their Dale Garn pattern sweaters. It explains how to curve the top edges of the collar and create a mirror image facing that maintains the curve properly. It explains a facing construction for the placket opening that eliminates gaping and finishes it perfectly, as well as adding proper strength to the edges. It also explains how to create placket borders and provides a photo template for achieving a delicately flowing embroidery design.

As a courtesy, I wrote to both Dale of Norway and Dale Garn, requesting permission to include with this pattern the motif charts I created, due to the similarity. Neither replied. I then proceeded to dig around online in search of information pertaining to copyrights of garment designs. I learned that garment construction cannot be copyrighted, because it is utilitarian. Garment art is protected, but only if registered. (Source.) If registered within three months of original release, the owner can recover statutory damages and attorneys' fees. If registered within five years, only actual damages can be recovered, and that is hard to prove. Beyond five years indicates an owner's unconcern, and thus is no longer taken seriously in a court of law. Keep in mind that Peace was designed for the Torino Olympics -- back in 2006.

So, I visited the online catalog of the U.S. Copyright Office and looked up both Dale of Norway and Dale Garn. I found that it's been years since either of them registered anything, '03 for the former, and '98 for the latter. Peace was never registered. Maybe someone should have responded to me, so we could have worked out something mutually beneficial. As it stands, I can do what I wish with this. In any case, even unchecked, I very much doubt I could make a serious dent in their business as a competitor, nor do I wish to. I'm not Norwegian, and thus this garment is not "genuine," or meant to be. But I do want to make my pattern available to fellow knitters who are interested in it. What I don't want to do is break laws.

6 December 2014: After having recently completed son's Norwegian sweater (relief), I had no intention of starting another such thing any time soon. Daughter shattered that plan. She found a photo of Dale of Norway's Peace sweater (on 24Nov14), and covetousness filled her heart. She emailed it to me stating, "I want." Thus the research and development part began.

I did some web surfing, contacted Larissa of Woolybaabaa, and discovered what I had feared most: No pattern, no yarn -- Dale only sells a ready-made, machined version. Larissa suggested I use Dale "Daletta" yarn and adjust accordingly. After all, how can I say no to daughter? (Actually, I could, but I won't. I like a challenge.)

I gathered a lot of photos, huge variety of views, in preparation for the future.

So, today, I charted motifs, did the math (arithmetic really), called a vendor to get a chest measurement for a model sweater, and discovered that the model sweater has a gauge of 10 stitches per inch compared to Daletta's 7. Per Larissa's suggestion (but I was thinking in that direction, anyway), I will shoot for 9 and make a 38 inch sweater. Daughter is about the same size as the model, but 38 will give her room for layering and freedom of movement.

Time to order yarn.

Resized motifs for Peace sweater

7 December 2014: Haven't ordered yarn yet, and I can scrap my targeted gauge. I'm getting 8/inch on size 1 needles. Woe is me. I'll likely have to shrink those motifs somehow.

8 December 2014: The deed is being done; I've shrunk two motifs so far. However, am also going to test out a finer yarn, then decide which direction to go in. Illustration is before and after motifs, originals on left and corresponding makeover to each one's right.

Daletta swatch on size 1

10 December 2014: I swatched Daletta first on size 3, and got 7 stitches per inch, then on size 1, and got a hair less than 8 per inch. Haven't heard from Woolybaabaa for a few days. Don't know whether my communications have been incoherent, or I've managed to say something stupid. I'll give it another day and then write again. It was suggested I swatch a baby yarn, and that's where we left it. I'll try anything, including a baby yarn on size 0 needles. Would kind of rather keep the motifs as is.

Motif swatch, Daletta and Baby UllThe Beginning . . .

13 January 2015: It's been a month since last I wrote, and my yarn order arrived yesterday, on cleaning day, and when I was dealing with a bad headache. I didn't attempt to start the project until late evening, and had some difficulties due to the fog and pain in my head. What I messed up last night I corrected this morning, and have now completed two rounds of knitting.

Between now and my last entry, Larissa (Woolybaabaa) had sent me more yarn, and I swatched a motif for gauge. Got my needed gauge, and decided to make this sweater using Daletta, though Baby Ull would also work.

I've cast on using the invisible method, which will leave me with live stitches to use for tacking the hem. I am now knitting the bottom hem on nearly 400 stitches, which is tricky, because I must be ever watchful for twists at this point. Hate it when circular knitting twists at the start, so I am determined to avoid that.

Border and hem

23 January 2015: After having knitted about 20 rows of the hem and border, I had to admit that the gauge wasn't working, so I ripped it out and started over. This new attempt, pictured, is much better, and I will continue. I've stitched just a bit of the hem into place, so the actual border can be discerned. The hem curls dreadfully, but that's to be expected. Looking forward to having completed the stitching of the thing.

I've modified the color design of the border somewhat, because I want to keep the navy color on the edge. Edges tend to collect dirt more readily than the rest of a sweater, and navy hides that. White does not.

Should probably mention . . . I've been knitting this with size 000 circular needle, which is punching painful holes into my fingers. Needle has standard tips, but the thing is so fine that the tips are sharp anyway. Occupational hazard, I guess.

Border, hem, and a bit more

And I'm not trying for jogless rounds. The border motif is interconnected, so I would have to keep shifting the round join back, plus do an increase, which would keep moving the centering, which I decided I did not wish to calculate again. The round join will be on the side, sort of under an arm, not very noticeable.

Center motif

27 January 2015: I just continue to work on this project. Tacking the hem in place is boring and tedious, so I alternate between tacking and knitting. The hemming process is about half finished.

29 January 2015: Well, I've started over again -- that was yesterday's project. Pretty confident that this is the last time. After having knitted a few inches, I concluded that I still wasn't going to get my target size. The good news is, with more knitting to work with, the challenging guesswork was removed; I had very firmly established both the horizontal and vertical gauges -- essential! Really want these false starts to end. I want to knit!!!

Later . . . I took that couple inches of knitting I had abandoned and put it on daughter. It's slightly tight but absolutely wonderful! She -- the picky one -- loved it! I guess, if it keeps going like it is, it'll be worth all the misery. So, back to punching holes in my fingers.

31 January 2015: Been doing a lot of knitting and a lot of pattern writing, juggling of numbers for proper length and width, tweaking of motif charts for accuracy. The sweater's motifs change slightly depending on location, so I must have proper notes. This time I'm going for jogless rounds just on the border. The border is continuous, but, beyond that, the sides must divide so the motifs are all aligned properly, symmetrically, across front and across back. Also, due to the darts, that's one more reason why "continuous" becomes impossible. Therefore, jogless rounds are pointless. The round join will be located along the left side where the front and back meet, under a sleeve.

Having firmly established my vertical gauge, and since my border is nearly finished, I can now do the math required to determine precise length to underarms. I've measured my daughter more than once. I've written my formula, and I find that Dale's starting place works perfectly for her. She's average height, a slim build, very comparable in size to the Zappos model (they generously state her measurements). My math agrees with what I'm seeing of the model sweater, so I'm good to go.

Jogless round join

2 February 2015: Really needed to get beyond the border, so I did a lot of knitting today. I'm satisfied with the jogless join. Now, having switched to a slightly larger needle, that doesn't poke holes in my skin, I can move along at a more pleasant knitting rate. Wouldn't mind, though, if this needle were 34 or 36 inches. The bunching of the weave on the needle creates several problems: needle suddenly sliding off, the need to pause and push the knitting into a different position, discomfort as it wads in my hands . . . Can't say that I really like working on something this fine.

Progress as of 5Feb15HemSunrise over Ice Lake - aptly named
Winter seascape - Lake SuperiorMy son on the brink of Bond Falls during our snowshoeing adventure. He's wearing a 30+ year old Norwegian sweater that was my second such project. It's become a hand-me-down from my husband, and is still in mint condition.

5 February 2015: Went to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan for a few days to visit my son. Brought the project along and made some progress. We also played in the snow and marveled at the spectacular beauty found in this rugged wilderness of a place.

Round join and turned hem

7 February 2015: Last evening, having arrived at the top end of the bottom motif in the vertical upright of the center cross, I needed to chart the irregularity that occurs on the lower part of that one snowflake motif (on some versions of Peace) just above it. In so doing, and thus encountering an inability to position the stitches correctly, I realized that I had made a slight error on the tips of the flower motif. I decided, though, that since this is not a true Peace sweater, I would leave the error in place, and chart the irregularity to create compensation. I will also need to create some compensation elsewhere, as the centers of all the motifs must lie on straight horizontal and vertical lines of knitting stitches. This is good; this makes the design my design rather than a carbon copy of Dale's Peace.

Much of second motif row is completed

11 February 2015: In the early stages of this endeavor, I was finding the process to be causing me much tension. Working without a pattern means one must lay one's own groundwork. Though I had swatched, the actual project became a more useful "swatch" to me than the relatively small pieces knitted on straight needles. With gauges being finalized, I had to make counting adjustments. I was also having to create my own motif charts, by looking at photos of ready made Peace sweaters. Then there was arranging the motifs, so that the cross motifs would align properly with the side panel motifs . . . Anyway, with everything now firmly established, I can simply knit, mindlessly, and that's when knitting becomes therapeutic. Therapeutic is good. I had reached a point of needing "therapy."

Final photo shoot, view 1Final photo shoot, view 2Final photo shoot, view 3Final photo shoot, view 4Final photo shoot, view 5

31 May 2015: I think these will be our final photo shoot. Still haven't fixed the crease in the upper sleeves, but oh well. Later. Tired of working on it. In any case, daughter and I are both completely satisfied with the outcome. Love this sweater on her!!!

Though my working title for this sweater was Quasi-Peace, the final name is Abbie's Pauper Sweater. This is because, years ago, when I was just a couple years older than she is now, I took up Nordic skiing, which I loved, and wanted a proper, functional wardrobe. The beautiful Norwegian ski sweaters were my heart's desire, but the price put them all far out of reach (that hasn't changed much). I decided to give hand knitting a try, in hopes of being able to make what I could not afford. I took a class, and, within a year, was able to make myself Myrmoseter. It's beautiful. I still have it. The pauper solution works for us.

Journalized (blogged) collection of design projects:


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