I explain tube hemming in Essential Techniques, including the circular method, Scandinavian section, p.25. I only explain the chain crochet cast on here.
Tube hems work best with K1 P1 ribbing. They eliminate abrupt cast-on rows. In
sewing, one hems a garment so the selvage edge is not an eye-sore. As
far as I'm concerned, a cast-on edge is a selvage and I've never
liked its appearance on a fine, hand knitted garment. Therefore, I
get rid of it. Tube hems are relatively simple in flat knitting, but
more tedious in the round. However, I always do it, and possibly
my photos are clear enough to see its effect: Photo Link Page
To work a circular tube hem, use DP or circular needles, cast on half the
stitches required, on needles about double the circumference of those
required, using double cast on or chain method. Work st st 4 rows. Take out the cast-on row and put the live stitches on the needle size required for the
start of the garment. Fold work in half along its length, so that facing side of st st
is seen. Be careful to align the stitches correctly. Using the
smaller size needle (the size you picked up the raveled stitches with), work K1 from front needle, P1 from back
needle, keep repeating, all the way around. Voila! Beautiful tube hem.
If you find that this requires some practice on your part, don't be at all surprised.
Chain Method: This is a Meg Swanson trick that I find useful. I think I found it online somewhere, but it wasn't on her site. It requires some crochet knowledge. Using scrap yarn and contrasting color, loosely chain the number of stitches required for CO plus a couple more (in case you goof the count). Using your working yarn and size of knitting needle required in pattern, insert into first back-loop of chain and pull a stitch onto your needle, work into next back-loop and do the same, keep repeating to desired count. DO NOT CATCH PLY! Now commence with your knitting project. When you have need of the live stitches, rip the chain -- so simple, provided you have not caught ply.
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