MY PUBLICATIONS AND PRODUCTS
"COILED ART WITH PINE NEEDLES-REVISED EDITION" This book is for beginners as well as experienced coilers who want to learn more. It includes all the original Coiled Art text, including Basics for Beginners, the stitch glossary, lids, inserts, handles, loops, beading, shaping, everything. Booklet: $10.50 includes shipping. How to order.
"COILED ART WITH PINE NEEDLES AND RAFFIA" Covers everything from beginner to most advanced techniques. Very thorough and complete. Compilation of my original publications plus more. Many illustrations. Booklet: SOLD OUT - no longer available. Purchase "Revised" instead..
"BIRCH BARK QUILL BOX PRIMER" All the basics thoroughly explained, with illustrations and templates. Booklet: $6.50 includes shipping. How to order.
GORGEOUS BASKET JEWELRY: Gemstones in gold filled settings for your coiled baskets. Prices vary. How to order.
Iris Teneriffe Pattern: Explanation and diagrams for weaving the iris. How to order.
Illustrated coiling pattern: $4.00 includes shipping. How to order.
Lake Superior Agate Inserts - click for pricing. Agate photos and information.
COMING SOON: Basket Jewelry - click for pricing.
Reed and Coiled Basket Patterns: Various patterns for reed and coiled baskets. How to order.
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Southern Longleaf Pine Needles.
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This information, including illustrations, and probably everything you will ever need to know about coiled basketry, is published in "Coiled Art with Pine Needles." Figure eight starts are explained in detail in this book.
Pine needle basket making is often referred to as "weaving," but this is incorrect. Coiled baskets are stitched/sewn together. The start of a basket is worked using a type of lashing called a figure-eight, where the tightly spiraled coil is held together by wrapping the binding fiber around the coils in a figure-eight pattern. This is done only at the beginning, to hold a spiral together that circles about three times, after which actual stitching begins.
Because coiled basketry starts are the putsiest part of a pine needle basket, I like to tackle several at once. First I soak and prep the needles, pulling off the caps.
While the needles are still full of moisture, I do the starts, because the tight coils require very flexible needles. However, as the needles dry out again, they are better for the wider coils because dry needles won't shrink, resulting in a wobbly basket.
I do not use a gauge and I don't sit at a table when I do this. It's not necessary to work on a flat surface to achieve a flat bottom. Coil placement is everything.
The figure eight start is explained well on one of the web pages I have linked to. At first, though, I did not understand from the instruction where I was to put that figure eight. After thinking about it for a while, the light came on -- so to speak. To the left is a cross section drawing of 2 coils being lashed together with a figure eight stitch. Do not stitch through a coil -- go between them. Wrap a few pine needles, form a spiral with them, then lash the spiral with figure eight stitches.
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